GC Marine
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Numa Boa - Moore 24 - Open Transom, Complete Paint Job,      (back to showcase home page)

Projects: cut out transom; rig floating lead system; new toe rail on bow; repair delaminated areas of the deck; build a cockpit console for control lines; build carbon fiber bow hatch and re-core the deck around the hatch cut out; build a carbon tiller; new deck paint job; paint top sides; paint bottom

The first order of business: grab the sawsall and jigsaw and cut out the back of the boat. I left all the edges proud so I could locate the exact edges later.
We vacuum-bagged the panels on a laminating table and then hot-glued them into position.
The panels extended out past the edge because we glassed them from the inside first. Once that was done we could safely trim them flush with the boat edge.
One of the panels seen from the inside.

Once glassed from the inside we can trim the outside edges.
We repaired the broken keel frames in the bilge. These had popped off after a trailer accident with a pickup truck which totalled the trailer.
To fix the spongy foredeck problem, we decided to replace the lewmar hatch and re-core the deck around the cut-out. We glassed over the foam vacuum-bagged the lamination. 

Next we built a carbon hatch that perfectly matches the outer rim. It is cored in the center and solid carbon on the edges.
Next came the fun job of building the carbon hinges. Not that easy to do on a curved surface.  The bagging process required some fancy plumbing.
We also took the opportunity to re-core the deck underneath the mast with a G-10 plate as the old plywood had gotten mushy over the years. 

We glued the G-10 in place with a high-strength epoxy, then glassed over it.  We took the opportunity to beef up the interior which had come unglued after years of racing.  We built a custom barney post out of a mold with a Harken Duocam and 3 sets of cleats for the traveller, floating lead, and jib cunningham control lines  Top sides sanded and ready for the primer. 

Topsides finally painted by Bay Marine Boatworks with a blue metallic paint.  The barney post was glued in the cockpit. The last step is to shoot the non-skid.
After sortiing out the deck and the topsides, it was time to shoot the bottom. We chose to use Pro-Line Cold Cure epoxy primer as it wetsands to a smooth finish and doesn't yellow over time.  Finally in the water.

We were careful to sand evenly across the chine and it came out nice and straight. It wasn't to begin with.
We left the cockpit floor with just primer, and covered it with super grippy non-skid tape.  We had to build a special s-shaped tiller to wok with the lower rudder attachment.
Tiller attachment to rudder post. 

We added a G10 insert below the tiller attachment for a more secure hold for the fasteners.